Monday, April 28, 2014

DULINI - DAY 4 AND LEAVING FOR HOME

On our last evening dinner was very special.  Each couple was taken to a different location in the lodge where an intimate dinner was served.  Our table was placed in front of a fireplace with a warm fire and the table set with candles floating in a vase of pink liquid, glass ware and wines, serviettes folded decoratively, a dedicated waiter, and delicious food.  The whole evening was much better than 5-star!
Sadly we left this paradise and began our long journey home.  First a 2.5 hr very rough road trip, then a  flight to Johannesburg, followed by a jumbo to Sydney (takeoff delayed by 2 hrs).  Because we arrived late in Sydney, we missed our connecting flight and were transferred to a later flight.  Final arrival at home was 24 hrs after leaving Dulini Lodge, very tired but floating on wonderful memories.
It is rather difficult to say goodbye to Africa after such an amazing time - as the grandchildren say it was "awesome".  Our daughter arranged the tour for us, and she is to be given great credit for her travel consulting talents.
Now we must tighten our belts and save for the next planned vacation!

Sunrise on our last morning in Africa.

A deep water crossing that almost caused a disaster.  Just made it to the other side of the crocodile infested river.

A lucky find.  First sighting of a pack of wild dogs looking for a meal.

The wild dogs tried to cross the river but were afraid of the crocodiles.

Another buffalo.  These are feared by the guides when on foot.  They look deceptively passive, rather like dairy cattle.

Wildebeest are plentiful 

Our last breakfast with our group.  Two from Washington (honeymooners), two from Sydney soon to get married, the guide Dynamo, and the two oldies from Australia

Judy not wanting to leave this wonderful location!

Saturday, April 26, 2014

DULINI - DAY 3

This morning's game drive was again exhilarating.  The range of animals and the skills of the ranger and spotter at Dulini are the best we have had.  The day begins with a juice and cuppa at 5.15 am, and then the 6  bleary-eyed guests climb aboard our jeep.
We returned to the same location as last evening, and found that the male leopard had taken the impala kill up the tree to protect his catch from scavengers. 

Leopard's breakfast draped over a fork in a tree

The male leopard returned and passed within a few centimetres of where Judy sat in the vehicle - Judy slowly edged toward the centre of the vehicle!

Leopard just checking the tree to make sure his catch is still safe.

We then sighted a pack of Hyena who appeared to be on a mission.  They apparently have a sense of smell about 16 times as strong as humans.  We followed them for a few kms but they hid in thick bush and we lost them.

Another coffee stop before continuing the search.  Every day is different as we find new and interesting animals.  This game park is a gold mine of viewing opportunities.

A dwarf specimen in the same family as the Mia cat.

DULINI - DAY 2 (CONTINUED)

The second part of Day 2 at Dulini was a fascinating day.  A long day but worth every moment

On the evening drive we stumbled upon this female Leopard.

She was eating a male Impala that she did not catch. (the guide somehow knew)

She was continually on the lookout for the "owner" of the catch.

It was not long before the "owner" returned, a large male Leopard that walked within a metre of our vehicle.  He was not happy that his catch had been eaten by the female who quickly departed when he approached.  He then started to follow her but we lost them in the bush.  They would either fight or mate - we think the latter occurred.

Now where has she gone?

Elegant Giraffe at sunset, not far from our lodge

We were then driven to a clearing in the bush, and this is what we came across. The staff at the lodge had taken all the tables, BBQ's, lanterns, food etc. etc. from the lodge and set it all up under the trees.   The beer was cold, the wine never ending, and the meal superb.  Kudu, chicken, pork spare ribs, and heaps of vegetables and salads.  Three courses as usual with soup and sweets. Wow, what a night! 

How we will get up at 5.00am is hard to imagine after this feast.

A perfect setting on a balmy evening under the stars.

Friday, April 25, 2014

DULINI - DAY 2

Have learned that Richard Branson owns two lodges close by here.
This morning's game drive was very exciting.  Within a very short distance from the lodge we came across a mother and baby rhino grazing in the early morning mist, and then a mother elephant and her young.  Next we rounded a corner and came face to face with a very large and hostile female rhinoceros.  For a rather scary moment we all thought she was going to charge, but she turned and moved off the track into the scrub.  Great relief felt by the 6 travellers and the driver/ ranger and spotter    in the jeep.  
Further along the track we came upon a pride of lions languishing in the grass.  two very large males and two females were keeping watch, whilst the 6 cubs were dozing in the centre of the track. The  jeep needed to go off- road to bypass the pride, and they appeared non-plussed by our close proximity.
Later we found a large group of Hyenas (about 15 adults plus cubs), who were squabbling over the carcass remains of a previous kill/ death or opportune theft from another animal/s. The animals here were more prolific than anywhere else we have come across.
We got out of the vehicle and walked for an hour back to the camp with two guides. They both carried rifles and were at the ready at all times.  Some of he tourists had trouble walking straight, as legs were shaking especially when an angry bull elephant looked ready to charge.  We had to back track quickly and take the long way home.   A bit scary but a great experience.

Sunrise at 6.00 am as we begin our game drive

Mother and baby in the early morning fog

Hyena guarding the remainder of a carcass.  Very ugly faces when their teeth are exposed.

Cuppa stop on the way back to the lodge - with the inevitable Amarula

4 x 4 jeep plus cup of tea in the bush

Active herd of impala - many females and only one male (mating season now so this is the norm)

Lion cubs sleeping in the middle of the road

Error.  Daybreak photo entered twice by mistake

One of the guides with rifle at the ready.

Thursday, April 24, 2014

DULINI - DAY 1

The Dulini private Safari Lodge in the Sabi Sands Game Reserve is located on the south west corner of the Kruger National Park and shares a common 50km unfenced boundary with Kruger to the east.
After a rough and bumpy 3.5 hour drive from Ngala, we came across this oasis in the bush which looks as if it may be the best lodge yet!  Our suite even has an outdoor shower and spa pool, is quite large, and very tastefully decorated.  There are only 6 suites so it is relatively secluded and private.  As usual, the staff are eager to help in any way possible and make us feel very welcome - almost like family.  Again, no walking outside after dark unless escorted by staff, and always lock door when leaving because of baboons looking to break in and steal.

Dining room with thatched roof.  A free-roaming Nyala in foreground.  If the Nyala all disappear you know there is a leopard in the vicinity.

Outdoor spa pool

View from our room

Two showers - this one is outside

NGALA - ANOTHER SAFARI

The afternoon/evening game drive today was amazing - one never knows what animals will be sighted from one drive to the next.  We came across a group of 3 rhinos feeding and followed them off-road through the scrub.  The mother was very, very, large!
The ranger and spotter then followed footprints in the sand in an attempt to locate a pride of lions known to be in the area (an impala had been killed the night before, and another this morning).  The spotter located the pride not far off the track, and we drove off-road quite close to where seven were lazing in the grass (all females except for a young male which was just beginning to grow a mane).  We were able to observe them at very close range (closest lion no more than 1.5 metres from the jeep) for quite some time, until the male suddenly became "spooked" and released a roar which seriously alarmed humans and lions alike.  Animals and humans then all beat a hasty retreat!
Roads through the park are very sandy, and much of them very rough with frequent crossings of dry creek beds.

We have learnt that African men still need to save for a dowry to pay for a wife, so they do not marry until quite old by Western standards.  Nowadays the payment is in cash, but is still called "cows" as per the previous custom of payment with cattle.

Lunch under the trees in the garden with a  relatively tame "Bush Buck" in the background.

Zebra swinging her tail while her offspring has a drink.

Rhino giving us the " what are you looking at" glare.  Large horn intact.

Female lion keeping watch for the 7- strong pride which we were lucky enough to observe at close range. 

This one was about 2 metres from the vehicle and appears ready to pounce.  We backed off quickly.

Wednesday, April 23, 2014

NGALA SAFARI LODGE

Flew to Hoedspruit from Cape Town in 2.5 hours and after a 1 hour road trip we are at Ngala Safari Lodge in the Timbavati Game Reserve on the edge of Kruger National Park.  The reserve is unfenced  and animals roam free, so no walking anywhere at night (even to dinner) without calling for an escort.  Cabins must be locked (3 different locks) to keep baboons out.  They are very smart, can open a lever door handle, and like to steal cosmetics and medications if no food is available.
Evening safari at 4.00 pm with plenty of game including three Rhinos and then, in the middle of bush land, arrived at a clearing where they had set up dinner for all the guests.  It was an incredible environment like fairyland under the stars, and a highlight of the trip.  About 200 paraffin lanterns dimly lit the site, and the most magnificent three course meal will be an evening to remember for many years.  There was even a complete bar set up - nothing was too much trouble.  This lodge rocks!  
It was a lucky night for us, because they only do this twice each month.
The morning's 6.00 am safari led us to a hyena den with two females and two cubs. They were much larger than we expected ( about 1 metre high ) and rather smelly.   One of the cubs was being rejected by the mother, appeared very underweight, and the guide indicated to us that it may not survive.

Rhinoceros seen on the evening game drive

Glorious sunrise at 6.00 am

Male kudu in the bush, very close to our jeep

Colourful guinea fowl

Female hyena with her two cubs, healthy one feeding

Two female hyenas at their den which is a burrowed-out anthill

A snack and cuppa ready for us in the bush after the morning game drive